Composite fencing installation

What composite fencing is

Composite fencing is made from a blend of wood fibres and recycled plastic, formed into boards or panels that slot into posts. It looks like timber but does not rot, warp or need painting or staining, which is the main reason people choose it. Boards come in a range of colours, from natural wood tones to contemporary greys and anthracite, and most systems give a clean, slatted, modern look.

Because the boards are heavier and more rigid than a standard lap panel, the posts and footings matter even more than with a timber fence. A composite fence on weak posts is money wasted.

Posts: concrete, steel or composite

The posts decide how long the fence lasts. Concrete posts are the traditional choice: they do not rot, they take slotted boards and concrete gravel boards, and they suit most gardens. Steel post systems are slimmer and give a cleaner look with composite boards, and composite posts are available to match the boards for a fully uniform fence.

Whichever post is used, it goes in to a proper depth and is set in concrete, because a tall, solid composite fence catches a lot of wind. On sloping ground the fence can be stepped or raked, and where levels differ either side of the boundary, a gravel board or a low brick wall takes the soil rather than the fence boards.

Gravel boards and the bottom of the fence

The bottom of any fence is where the problems start. Composite boards should not sit in soil, so a gravel board runs along the ground line to keep them clear. Concrete gravel boards are the hard-wearing option; composite gravel boards keep the whole fence one material. Getting this detail right is what stops the fence wicking up water and staining at the base.

Height, boundaries and neighbours

The same rules apply as for any fence: under permitted development, fences can usually be up to 2 metres high, or 1 metre next to a road used by vehicles, with extra restrictions for listed buildings and conservation areas. Check who owns the boundary before replacing a fence, and talk to neighbours first, especially if access is needed from their side. Our main fencing page covers fence types and repairs more broadly.

How installation works

The old fence comes down first, including digging out the old post footings, which is usually the slowest part of the job. New posts are then set in concrete at the spacing the composite system needs, checked for line and level, and left to set before the boards go in. Gravel boards go along the bottom, then the boards slot or clip into the posts bay by bay, and gates are hung last.

Composite boards expand and contract a little with temperature, so the systems have their own fixing details and gaps to allow for it. Following the manufacturer's spacing and fixing instructions is what keeps the fence straight and the warranty valid.

Colour is worth choosing with the house and garden in mind. Dark greys and anthracite suit modern paving and pale walls; brown and wood-tone boards sit more quietly against brick and planting. Most ranges offer matching gates, so the whole boundary can be one material. Samples look different in daylight than on a screen, so it is worth seeing a board against your own brickwork before committing to a full run.

Is composite worth it?

Composite costs more up front than a basic timber panel fence, but it does not need treating every couple of years and it does not rot at the base, so over its life the maintenance saving is real. It suits gardens where you want a smart, consistent finish that stays that way. If you prefer a traditional look or a lower initial outlay, close-board or panel fencing may suit better, and we can talk through both.